Fashion Photography in UCC Library’s Collections

Paris Fashion Week, 26 February to 5 March, 2024

Paris Fashion Week, established in 1945, epitomises haute couture’s pinnacle, showcasing luxury brands and emerging designers. Originating from post-World War II efforts to revive Parisian fashion, it rapidly became a global authority. Led by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the event evolved into a biannual extravaganza, presenting spring/summer and autumn/winter collections. Iconic designers like Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent cemented its prestige, while contemporary luminaries sustain its allure. Paris Fashion Week is celebrated for its avant-garde creativity, trendsetting designs, and glamorous runway spectacles.

Above photographs by Alen MacWeeney Courtesy University College Cork © 2022 (UCC All Rights Reserved).

Fashion Photography in UCC Library

On the occasion of this year’s Autumn/Winter Paris Fashion Week UCC Library’s Special Collections and Archives would like to highlight the inventive and extraordinary fashion photography of Alen MacWeeney. MacWeeney is an Irish born photographer, based in New York since the 1960s, who has photographed the Irish and American landscape and people extensively. He is best known for his work about Irish Travellers, rural life, Belfast in 1971, and the New York City subway. During the 1970s and 1980s MacWeeney contributed greatly to the world of editorial, fashion, and commercial photography. In 2019 UCC Library acquired the Alen MacWeeney Archive.

Above photographs by Alen MacWeeney Courtesy University College Cork © 2022 (UCC All Rights Reserved).

Photographed for Redbook Fall Fashion in 1970.

Pioneer of Fashion Photography

Edward Steichen, a pioneering figure in both fine art and fashion photography, revolutionised the industry during the early 20th century. Initially renowned as a painter, Steichen transitioned to photography, where his innovative approach reshaped the genre. As the chief photographer for Condé Nast’s Vogue and Vanity Fair magazines in the 1920s and 1930s, Steichen elevated fashion photography to an art form. His use of dramatic lighting, dynamic compositions, and meticulous attention to detail transformed fashion imagery, imbuing it with elegance and sophistication. Steichen’s work helped establish photography as a legitimate medium for artistic expression, laying the foundation for future generations of fashion photographers.

Above photographs by Alen MacWeeney Courtesy University College Cork © 2022 (UCC All Rights Reserved).

Photographed for Canadian fashion designer Arnold Scassi in 1984.

Fashion as Art and Industry

Fashion photography is the art of capturing clothing, accessories, and fashion trends in a visually appealing and compelling manner. Emerging in the late 19th century alongside the rise of fashion magazines, it quickly became a vital component of the fashion industry. Renowned photographers like Richard Avedon (MacWeeney’s mentor), Irving Penn, and Helmut Newton developed distinct styles, from minimalist elegance to provocative glamour. Today, fashion photography continues to evolve, blending traditional techniques with digital innovation. It serves not only to showcase garments but also to convey narratives, evoke emotions, and reflect cultural zeitgeist.

Above photographs by Alen MacWeeney Courtesy University College Cork © 2022 (UCC All Rights Reserved). Photographs of model Jean Branton, 1969.

Changes Towards Equity and Inclusion

The fashion industry, while celebrated for its creativity and innovation, also harbors numerous negative aspects. One significant concern is the environmental impact, with fast fashion contributing to pollution, resource depletion, and excessive waste. Exploitative labor practices, including low wages and poor working conditions, prevail in many garment manufacturing regions, perpetuating social inequality and human rights abuses. The industry’s promotion of unrealistic body standards and excessive consumption fosters body image issues and unsustainable consumer behaviors. Intellectual property theft, cultural appropriation, and lack of diversity and inclusivity further underscore systemic flaws within the fashion world, highlighting the need for comprehensive reforms to foster sustainability, ethics, and equity.

Above photographs by Alen MacWeeney Courtesy University College Cork © 2022 (UCC All Rights Reserved).

Large image in above grouping photographed for Tunisian fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa in 1986.